We continue our food and beverage theme (https://johnpavolotsky.com/2021/01/28/in-search-of-the-perfect-cup/), with a trip around the world in search of gluten-free delights. We start in Rome, the mecca of gluten free dining. Roma Senza Glutine, a treasure trove of gluten free breads, crackers, biscuits, and other goodies, was but a short walk from our flat in Trastevere.
Mama Eat Trattoria Pizzeria was another favorite, located on a narrow cobblestone street near the Piazza Santa Maria. It had two menus and kitchens, one gluten-free. Earlier that day, we enjoyed lunch at Mama Eat Lab, near Vatican City. It was one of those (Mama Eat) days.
Italians take gluten-free seriously. A stipend of 140 euros per month is afforded to those with celiac disease. Virtually every restaurant had senza glutine offerings, including pastas, pizzas, and meat dishes. Upon arriving in Venice, we enjoyed a delicious pasta dinner a few doors down from our hotel. No gluten-free app leading us down dark alleyways and side streets (more on this later) to a restaurant on the third floor of a seemingly residential building, in a windowless (although pleasantly decorated) space that could have doubled as an army bunker. Similarly, tasty gluten-free meals were to be had in Lucca, and supermarkets throughout Italy offered a wide variety of gluten-free options, including edible (yes!) gluten-free bread.
Planning your next meal is one of the joys (challenges?) of traveling anywhere, especially internationally. Finding a suitable gluten-free option sometimes makes a tricky exercise even trickier.
That said, the rest of Europe did not lag Italy by much, due in part to comprehensive labelling and other regulations. A gluten-free bakery (Jansana) was located about 100 meters from our flat in Barcelona, a block or two off of La Rambla. The hamburgers on gluten-free buns hit the spot, after the RCD Espanyol-Villarreal match at Estadi Cornella-El Prat. We enjoyed gluten-free pizza during our lunch stop in Tarragona, en route to Valencia. We arrived in Granada at nine or so o’clock at night, after a rather interesting drive from Valencia, through southeastern Spain and the Sierra Nevadas (not recommended at night). Famished, we unpacked and walked a short distance to El Quinteto, where we met the chef/owner and enjoyed a fabulous dinner, with gluten-free croquettes, jamon from Extremadura, and the obligatory (but competent) sangria.
Travel to northern Europe and still no issue. The McDonalds in Oslo offered gluten-free hamburgers. Supermac in Athlone, County Westmeath Ireland, featured a wonderful gluten-free chicken sandwich. We enjoyed gluten-free afternoon tea (and sandwiches and cakes) in London. It was almost as simple as pressing the easy button.
Japan, the home of glutinous rice, was trickier. To combat the language barrier, we created a laminated card explaining our allergies in Japanese. That helped, somewhat. Some restaurateurs read the card and simply (and conscientiously) shook their heads, wanting, but unable, to help. If we did not have the card readily available, we simply said, “no soya,” and that worked reasonably well. For breakfast, hard-boiled eggs, with orange yolks, from 7-Eleven quickly became a staple. One day included breakfast sushi at Tsukiji Market. Most importantly, the Find Me Gluten Free app, coupled with Google Maps, proved invaluable, leading us, one night, to the Little Bird Café (Shibuya), well worth our journey, but about as easy to find as the Bat Cave. The food, especially the gluten-free fried chicken bits, was tasty and perfect for the moment, a cool, damp night in October.
Closer to the home, in the United States, regrettably it has been hit-or-miss, although the options are improving. During a visit to New York City some time ago, our gluten-free app brought us to a restaurant capable of meeting our dietary needs. As I approached it, I saw a “B” inspection rating on the window. Virtually all restaurants in New York City have an “A” rating (or so it seemed), so when I pointed this out to my spouse, she responded, rather blithely: “It’s gluten-free.” For what it’s worth, we enjoyed a perfectly unremarkable breakfast. Fast forward, despite blank looks (celiac?) from time to time, the aperture is widening, and the options are better and varied. That said, the search continues, and recommendations are always appreciated.
Comments welcomed.
The Peninsula Hiking Club 