Calistoga

Some notes and observations: 

• Calistoga is a wellness resort, founded in 1862 by Samuel Brannan, who, legend has it, had hoped to create the Saratoga (a renowned hot springs in New York) of California, and instead, after a beverage or two, founded the California of Saratoga, or Calistoga. The town, located 75 miles northeast of San Francisco, at the northern most end of Napa Valley, is home to countless spas, offering geothermal-fed pools of varying temperatures, mud baths, etc.  Calistoga is the Montecatini Terme (Tuscany) and Glenwood Springs (Colorado) of California.  I have yet to visit Karlovy Vary (Czech Republic), but why travel six thousand miles when I have Calistoga in my backyard.  

• For some reason, wellness resorts are popular with Europeans, especially those from its central and eastern regions.  My family “discovered” Calistoga more than forty years ago.  Each summer weekend offered a pilgrimage opportunity to comfortably warm weather (in sharp contrast to the constant fog, drizzle, and rawness of San Francisco’s Richmond District), even warmer waters, a chaise lounge (if lucky), and time with fellow travelers (recent emigres from the former Soviet Union).  Like any kid, I would marinate for hours in the Olympic-style, somewhat ancient (1910) pool at Pacheteau’s Hot Springs.  There was a grassy area in the back, with more chairs, where I might spend time if not in the water, or on a chair under a broad awning to the side of the pool, the prize for those arriving early to this marquee wellness destination.  Dinner at Checker’s or the pizza place at the entrance of town, across the street from what is now the Tank Garage Winery, were typical, as was a stroll through Pioneer Park, adjacent to the Napa River (really a creek at this spot), where my father, an avid and intrepid fisherman, earned a fishing ticket (and most likely failed to catch any fish).  Sometimes, we would spend our vacations in Calistoga, in the cottages at Pacheteau’s, lacking air conditioning (of course, back in the day), but perfectly content, especially after the temperature started dropping at night, with an unobstructed view of the glider port directly in front of our back patios, the Mayacamas to the west, and the stars radiant overhead.  The glider port is gone, and there is a small fence at the back of the Indian Springs property, which now includes a cooler (84 degree F) adult pool, a new hotel, refurbished cottages, and an excellent restaurant (Sam’s Social Club).  Calistoga Spa was another favorite, especially for multi-days visits.  Roman Spa and Golden Haven Spa complete our menu of wellness report options.  Dr. Wilkinson’s was not one of our go-to resorts, but it is (still) a classic.

• Wineries and to a lesser extent spas and craft breweries have proliferated in the last forty years. Each winery has a story (of course), seemingly part of the winery marketing playbook. Tank Garage Winery is a former car garage. Where mechanics once poured oil, wine tasting servers now pour novel blends with whimsical titles like Dopamine and Self-Love. Brian Arden, a former sommelier, has crafted a very competent (and not sweet at all) Riesling and Tempranillo, which can be enjoyed, with a charcuterie board, at his winery on the Silverado Trail, just south of Solage, with views of multiple vineyards and the Vaca mountains. Two tasting sessions are more than enough. Take your time and enjoy the vibe.

• I was surprised by the smallness of Calistoga. I had last visited ten years ago, but it seemed even smaller now.  For me, Calistoga is one of those places where I have one foot firmly in the past and the other very much in the present.  Naturally, I am particularly attuned to what has changed (and what hasn’t).  More than forty years later, you will still, without any difficulty, hear Russian being spoken at one of the many mineral pools.  

• A one-night visit is better than none, but not nearly long enough, especially after a pandemic-induced extended hibernation. 

• Reasonably priced accommodations are available, but may require a more time-consuming search.  The California Motor Lodge is a nice option, located at the eastern end of Lincoln Avenue (Highway 29), right before the Silverado Trail.  Completed in August 2020, the main building includes guestrooms with balconies providing views of the Mayacamas. 

• Go on a hike.  The trailhead for the Oat Hill Mine Trail is 0.3 miles from the California Motor Lodge, just past the intersection of Highway 29 and the Silverado Trail. The trail is an old stagecoach route, 8.3 miles each way, a steady ascent above the valley floor up and into the Vaca mountains.  I hiked three miles in total, as it was getting warm and the noon checkout time was quickly approaching. Bring plenty of water and start early, especially during the summer. Also, it is super dry; in fact, last August the Glass fire nearly burned down Calistoga and you can see how far it got as you hike up the mountain and pass a cathedral of charred madrones.  Despite the fires, new vegetation is beginning to grow, but with the tinder box conditions, extreme care is advised. 

• Last, but I suppose not least, the mask situation is more relaxed in Calistoga, at least compared to the San Francisco Bay Area. In California, as of last week, if you are vaccinated you can be unmasked inside if the place of business permits it. Most, in Calistoga, do, and visitors unmask.  A visit to any coffee shop or supermarket reflects this. 

Comments welcomed.